 |
|
|
|
||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||
|
Jerry’s Do It Yourself help, information and tips for homeowners making repairs, installing and fixing up their homes. Interior Projects Outdoor Projects Electrical Projects Plumbing Projects Carpentry Kitchens Additions Decks Pool Areas Landscaping Concrete Work Framing Painting Audio/Video Home Theater Remodeling Renovations Flooring Gardening Home and Garden Basements Home Repairs How To Guides Do It Yourselfer Windows - Doors Hand Tools Power Tools Ideas Install Installations
|
|||||||||||||||
|
|
|
|
|
Replacing a Pool Pump & Motor Replacing a pool pump and motor is relatively easy for do it yourselfers if you are mechanically inclined and have some plumbing & electrical experience. If you were to do this job yourself you would save about 50% of what a pool contractor would charge for the total job. This is not a step by step installation guide to follow but rather an overview of how to repair or replace a pool pump or motor and to evaluate the tasks involved in doing it yourself. When a pool pump is going bad look and listen for the following; a squealing noise from the motor that continues for few minutes after startup, excessive heating up of motor, water leaks around the pump housing, water leaks around motor housing or the pump losing its prime - no water in the view basket or goes dry. If you hear the squealing noise it is most likely the motor or bearings. If water flow is not steady and the pump motor is running it is most likely that the pump or impellers are failing.
There are two ways to approach the repairs for each of these symptoms. You can replace just the broken or worn parts and seals if you are limited on funds or replace just the motor or pump housing separately, this requires taking apart the two pieces to install the new components and seals. The second choice is to replace the whole pump & motor assembly with a new one put together by the manufacturer. If your pump and motor is 7 - 12 years old I would recommend changing the entire assembly, if just 1 part is changed there will most likely be a strain on the other older parts which may cause them to fail shortly after you replace the current parts. In the long run purchasing a complete motor & pump assembled from a manufacturer will give you a factory warranty on the motor and pump, a few years of carefree service and solve the problem of searching for discontinued replacement parts for an older pump.
If you wish to replace the entire pump motor assembly here are some tips to remember. Before you actually do the replacement, turn off the pump and look for the manufacturers tag on the motor and pump and write down all the information, manufacturer, voltage, HP, 110/220v, phase, pump pipe size at inlet and outlet and model number and check to see if it is the right size pump to handle your pools volume. Now do the rest of the research from this information and check all of the PVC fittings, valves and connections to and from the pump for leaks and make a list of new parts needed to complete the job. Once you have all of the parts you are ready to start. Safety first, locate the circuit breaker in your electric panel for the pump and turn it off and tag the breaker or tape over the switch with red tape so no one energizes the pump breaker as you are working on it.
Next, tag & disconnect the power and ground wires from the motor. Now remove the supply and return piping from the pump. If there are no pipe unions inline on the supply and return lines this would be a good time to install them for ease of future service to the pump. The same goes for replacing any leaky ball valves or connections to pool heater or chlorinator, this is the time to make all piping repairs. Set the pump/motor assembly on a supplied base or wood, level the pump and align the inlet and outlet position to make the connections. After all of the piping is done reconnect the power wires to the motor as labeled in the manufacturers wiring diagram. Do not start up pump at this time. Realize that although PVC connections seem to set very fast at time of assembly the joints still need to cure for a few hours before pressure is applied to the pipe, follow manufacturers instructions for curing time.
Before starting the pump for the first time, fill the view basket chamber on the pump with water so the pump has water to prime itself when started. Do a visual check of connections and check that threaded pipe connections are tightened. Make sure the shut off switch near the pump is off and go to the breaker panel and remove tagging and reset breaker to the on position. Go to the location where the pump is and turn on the service switch momentarily to check for power and correct wiring. If the pump started with no noise turn power on again and let the pump run for a few minutes while checking the new pipe connections and joints. If there are no leaks and the pump/motor are running smooth and quiet then you have completed the installation correctly. If there are noises or leaks turn off the power and make the repairs and repeat startup procedure. Always follow the manufacturer’s installation manual supplied with the pump.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Replacing a Submersible Well Pump Replacing a submersible well pump is not a complicated task and relatively simple if you understand the basics about a well system - like the placement of the pump, how the submersible pump operates and how it is installed in a well casing. An advanced do it yourselfer with knowledge of electrical wiring and some basic plumbing skills is probably capable of replacing a submersible irrigation pump. This is not a step by step installation guide but rather an overview for a general understanding to evaluate whether to do it yourself or hire a contractor. The savings on the cost of labor, if you do it yourself, will be about 50 - 60% of the total price of a contractor doing the job. The first factor in deciding whether to attempt doing it yourself is how deep the well is and do you have a large enough lay down area to layout the pipe in your yard once you start pulling it out of the casing. If your well is 50’ to 150’ deep, I would recommend doing it yourself if you are physically capable to continuously lift and pull about 40 to 70 pounds of weight and hold it in place for during the complete removal of pump to keep from dropping it back into the well. To do this you will need at least one other person to help you pull out the pump and guide the discharge pipe away from the well as you are lifting it out.
The well casing in made of steel, iron or PVC pipe usually 3”or 4” inside diameter and this acts as a sleeve in which the pump housing, discharge pipe and wiring go down to reach the water level within this pipe casing. Attached to the submersible pump is the discharge pipe, usually 1” to 1- ¼” flexible poly pipe and the electrical wiring which also runs into this casing to the depth of submersible pump in the well. The deeper the well, the heavier and more difficult it is to lift out. The weight of the pump assembly may require some rigging above the well casing to help lift and hold the pump assembly in place so it doesn’t slip and drop back down into the well casing as you are pulling it out. Once you start pulling up of the pump you must continue the motion until it is fully out of the casing. If you are doing this manually attach a rope beforehand to the top end of well cap so the other person can easier hold on to it and tie it off to something - a tree or fence, in between lifts if you need to take a break and stop lifting.
If you decide to replace the well pump yourself, here are some tips to remember. Determine that the pump motor is bad by checking circuit breakers, switches and check that power is at the well head. If power is on at well head it is a good sign that the pump is broke. Turn off the power at the breaker panel, tag and lock it out for safety before you start exposing the well head. Clear the area around the well head, approx 6’ to 8’ diameter, of shrubs and plants so you have enough room to expose the pump outlet and electrical connections. Disconnect the discharge pipe and undo the wiring at the junction box near the top of the well. Loosen the bolts on top of the casing cover, this is a squeeze type of cover with a thick rubber ring that expands as tightened and contracts as loosened against the casing interior. Once loose, try to lift the cover, as you lift you will be getting an idea of how heavy the whole assembly is of which you have to lift out of the well.
Now you are ready to lift the pump. Rubber gloves, protective clothing or coveralls should be worn as the pump piping may have an iron and silt residue on the exterior and can be quite a messy job. Fasten a pull rope around the top of the well head for the other person to hold on and tie off if needed. Some wells may have a leader rope or cable already attached from original installation instead of relying on the discharge hose clamps and connection. The person who will do the actual pulling should stand directly above the well to lift the discharge piping straight out of the casing and the other person should stay with the top end of well cap and guide it to where you lay it down as you pull. Make sure that the person guiding the end has a good grip on the end before you release to get another grip. Continue until pump assembly is fully out of the casing and wash off the entire pump end so you read the specification tag of the pump.
Collect the information from the old pump - brand, model, HP, voltage, phase, 110/220, rpm, 2 or 3 wire configuration, continuous duty and the pumps outlet size and discharge pipe size. Most residential submersible pumps are either 2 wire or 3 wire configuration. The 2 wire type has 2 – 110v wires along with a case ground to pump housing. The 2 wire pump needs no controls. If it is a 3 wire pump you should replace the controls also. Most submersible pump are two piece units bolted together to be one assembly and consists of the motor and the pump. You can just replace the motor or pump if you choose, but I would highly suggest that you replace the whole assembly. After you have identified what type and size pump you have you may want to decide to upgrade your system with a higher volume pump of keep the same configuration. For upgrading, you should contact a supplier or well contractor for recommendations to be compatible with your needs and piping sizes to which your pump feeds.
Installing the new pump assembly. Make an itemized list of new parts, controls, fittings or wiring as needed. If the existing wiring and flex pipe are in good condition there is no need to replace them. To install the new pump you will have to splice the electric wires together in a waterproof connection. Consult an electrician or well contractor to specify the power wire splice connector type and technique acceptable for well applications. Connect the pipe fittings and pipe clamps as directed in the manufacturer’s instructions. Tape the power wires about every 2’ for the entire length to the flex pipe for ease in reinstallation of pump into casing. Turn the power to the pump on momentarily to check if it is working before inserting assembly into well. Turn the power breaker off and prepare to insert the pump back into the well again using 2 people – one at the well opening lowering and feeding the pump down and the other person at the well head cover feeding the slack to you and to help hold back to prevent the pump from dropping quickly down the casing..
|
|
|
|
Outdoor Hose Faucet Repair or Replace
|
|
|
|
plumbing, plumber, do it yourself, diy, pro, home improvements, remodeling, kitchens, kitchen,how to, home, repairs, help, remodel, plumbing, electrical, sink repair, clogged drains, renovations, jerrys, whats the story, how to, showers, tub, tubs, shower door, install, installation, cabinets, countertops, repair drain, Ask Jerry, plumbing fixtures, hook up, toilet, bathroom vanity, medicine cabinet, plumbing supplies, hoses, dryer vent, humidifier, furnace, air conditioning, air filters, gutters, drain pipe, sewer pipe, water supply, supply lines, piping, copper, pvc, sprinkler system, well pump, gas line, natural gas, hook up stove, gas dryer, icemaker, bar sink, power tools, wrenches, pipe wrench, pipe dope, teflon tape, solder, plumbers torch, fix it yourself. faucet, |